Training Your Kitten to Use the Litter Box

By W Hunthausen, DVM & G Landsberg, DVM

 

 

         In order to avoid litter box problems in adult cats, it is extremely important that you get your kitten off to a good start.  A plastic box is usually the most practical since it is inexpensive and easy to clean.  The sides should be no higher than three to four inches so the kitten can easily climb in and out.  Place the box in a relatively quiet area of the home with minimal traffic, where the kitten can have some privacy.  Be certain the box is easily accessible, perhaps near the kitten’s sleeping area, since it may be difficult for a tiny kitten to navigate a few flights of stairs and find a litter box in the middle of the night.  Some kittens don’t care for scented litter, so it is usually best to start with an unscented clay litter.  If you already have cats at home, provide an additional box for each new cat.  Most kittens will automatically use kitty litter in preference to other surfaces, except perhaps for the soil of a potted plant.  Either keep plants out of the kitten’s reach or try covering the soil with pine cones or decorative rock to prevent mishaps there. 

 

To insure that the kitten uses its litter box every time it has to eliminate, it is a good idea to keep the pet within eyesight at all times.  If it stops playing and begins purposely sniffing around, there is a good chance that it needs to eliminate.  Gently pick the kitten up, carry it to the litter box, and place it inside. Praise any sniffing or scratching and give it loads of praise or a small food treat for eliminating.  Whenever you are unable to watch the kitten, it should be restricted to a cat-proofed room, with its litter box.  Do this for at least the first two weeks until it has established a regular pattern of using the box.

 

You must keep the box clean so that your pet will return to use it each time it has to eliminate.  To start out, it is better to err on the side of being too fastidious about the cleaning.  Scoop the box at least once daily and more often if you have the time.  Completely clean the whole box once each week, unless you are using a clumping litter (which might only need a complete cleaning every two to four weeks).  To clean the box, empty out the contents and use soap and hot water. Be sure to rinse well to get rid it of all of the soap odor.

 

Once you have found a brand of litter, type of box, and location that your kitten likes, it is best to avoid making sudden changes.  If you need to make a change, place the new box with the new litter in the new location, but do not take away the old litter until the kitten is using the new litter.  You might also consider mixing a little of the new litter in with the old for a couple of weeks.

 

Since it is important that the kitten feels comfortable where it eliminates, you must prevent anything unpleasant from happening to the pet when it is in or near its litter box.  If you catch the kitten in the box to give it medicine or scold it, it may start avoiding the litter box.  Also, be sure the box is not located near anything that might startle the kitten, such as a washing machine, radiator, or furnace.  If you anticipate a problem with children or dogs bothering the pet, you might want to consider using a baby gate with a kitty door, so that only the kitten has access to the litter box area.

What to do when mistakes occur         

It doesn’t take long for a kitten to develop a habit of using the undesirable area, so it is essential that you identify and correct the cause right away  

 

Causes of Housesoiling

·     Change in the brand of litter

·     Scented litter additives or the odor of cleansers /

deodorants

·     The litter box is not cleaned frequently enough

·     The litter box moved to a noisy area

·     The kitten was frightened in or near the box

·     Medical problems

 

If the habit persists make certain that the area has been thoroughly cleaned and treated with a commercial odor neutralizer (KOE is an excellent product, available at Westwood Animal Hospital).   Many cats will desist if their food and water bowl is placed at the previously soiled site.  Another alternative is to decrease the appeal of the soiled area by placing a sheet of plastic carpet runner (nubs up), some two sided sticky tape, an aversive odor (perfume, deodorized soap) or a motion detector alarm (The Scraminal™ is an excellent humane alarm for keeping pets away form problem areas. Available at the Westwood Animal Hospital)  in the area.  Never punish a kitten for urinating or defecating outside of its  litter box.  Punishment usually makes things worse or creates other problems such as fear of the owner, especially if you swat the kitten or rub its nose in the mess.

 

Using a covered litter box can help control the odor in the home and can be helpful for kittens that eliminate over the edge of the box.  If your cat refuses to use a covered box, try getting it conditioned to this type of setup by first placing a large cardboard box over the litter box.  Gradually decrease the size of the cardboard box until it approximates the size of the commercial box.  Then to make the switch.

 

If the kitten continues to eliminate out of the litter box, take it to your veterinarian for a physical exam, and possibly lab tests to make sure there are no existing medical problem.  For example, bladder diseases, diarrhea, and constipation can be irritating for the pet and cause it to avoid the box.

 

Spraying

As kittens mature, they may begin to spray.  Although neutering eliminates most spraying, some neutered cats will spray.  Spraying is a form of territorial marking where a small amount of urine is deposited on surfaces, usually vertical,  such as walls and furniture.  If spraying persists after neutering, and you have thoroughly cleaned and deodorized the areas, you will need to seek advice from your veterinarian.